Number 27

Santa Claus is known in Chiang Mai but is huge in the Philippines. At least 2 dozen times I was called Santa Claus by store clerks, security guards and people on the street in Manila. I was assured it wasn't a comment on my weight, rather Southeast Asians simply don't see many people with white beards. Plus my beard trimmer doesn't work here even with an adaptor, so my beard was getting a little bushy. I had been toying with the idea of having the barber cut it back to a goatee but couldn't quite decide. When I went to the airport in Manila to fly back here, the following incident convinced me it was time.

As I walked up to the security screening at the entrance to the airport, there were 4 guards, two men and two women. When the two women saw me they spontaneously, and in unison, began singing "Santa Claus Is Coming To Town". I am not making this up. As I walked through the scanning machine instead of wanding me, as they were doing to everyone else, one of the women high fived me. So, yesterday, I went to the barber. I brought a photo of me with a goatee and showed the barber. He did an excellent job and gave me my first professional shave complete with the straight razor and leather strap. I had been told by Mark, who had had a few haircuts here, that they do things a little differently. The neck and shoulder massage was nice but I still can't understand why they shave your forehead. Pretty bizarre.

Last night Sam and Dave and Moon and I went out for dinner and to hear some music. As Lao Professors, Sam and Dave don't have a lot of money so they don't go out to eat. They also have never come with when we've gone out to hear music so I was surprised when they accepted my invitation to go to dinner and "clubbing". We went to the Israeli restaurant since neither they nor Moon had ever had Middle Eastern food. It's more expensive then cheap Thai food so I insisted on paying. (more expensive is still cheap by American standards) I ordered Baba Ganoush and a Greek type fried cheese with lemon that was served with hot pita. It was good and they loved it. Then we had falafal, humus, salad, potatoes and more pita. The boys had beer and Moon and I had bottled water. Everyone ate too much and seemed to really enjoy the food.

We then decided to walk off dinner by going to a few clubs that Moon wanted to show us that were on the way to our first stop which was the Reggae Bar. The first one was a loud, flashing colored lights kind of go-go dancing bar with 4 women on the catwalk in bikinis dancing. Sam and Dave had the biggest grins on their faces I have ever seen. They had heard about this type of thing but never seen it. We didn't stay long but their smiles did. Next we went into a mellow, tie dye, black light, sit at tables on the floor hippie club. It was on the third floor and the stairs up were really tight with a really low ceiling. The music was good but the place was filled with falang who looked like they thought they could buy some Thai pot there but realized that all the signs on the walls saying their was no pot there were serious. We didn't stay long and finally made our way to the Reggae bar.

The walk was good and we got there just as the first set was starting. Moon's fiance Gary met us there and we found a table near the band. Sam and Dave loved the music and loved looking at all the strange falang with their dreadlocks and odd clothes. Though I couldn't understand most of what they were saying to each other (or hear it over the music), I'm pretty sure most of it was about perving chicks. After the first set we headed for a new Blues club that I had read just opened. A well known falang blues guitarist (well known in Thailand) had opened a club in Chiang Mai and his band was the house band. We had a basic address but had a hard time finding it. We finally got there a little after 11 and walked into a very quiet bar. We were welcomed by the owner, who I recognized from the article, and who said the music was done for the night. I asked him what time they played until and he said generally 12:30 or 1. I looked at my watch and at him and he told me they stopped at 11 because he was tired. (very Thai) He was very pleasant and we talked blues and gear (we were standing next to the little stage and I was looking at the guitars, bass and amps). He invited us to come back and invited me to sit in for a few tunes. (also very Thai) I'm going to try to go back tonight at 9 when they start, but don't plan on playing. (his bass player plays a stand up bass)

We drove back to the house and called it a night. And, as we say in Chiang Mai, another good day.